Watch Blog Series – Part 6

Nov 18, 2021
Exquisite Women’s Watches – Part 2

Last time, we looked at some beautiful watches from Breguet, Hublot, H. Moser, Girard-Perragaux and Carl F. Bucherer. Diamonds were a common theme on the featured timepieces and the same applies to these four watches. The focus here is on Chopard and Jaeger LeCoultre, two legendary brands with roots in high jewelry.

Watches
Chopard

Chopard is one of only a handful of watch manufacturers that also identify themselves as jewelers. Cartier, Piaget and Bvlgari are three others in this select group. The path Chopard followed to blend watchmaking and jewelry is interesting. Louis-Ulysse Chopard formed his eponymous company in 1860 with a vision for a vertically integrated manufacture producing its own movements, cases and components. After 100 years in business, Paul-Andre Chopard, the third-generation leader of the company, decided to sell the company. A series of fortuitous circumstances ensued which led to Chopard’s acquisition by the German jeweler and watchmaker Eszeha in 1962. Eszeha was especially interested in Chopard’s movement-making expertise for its own watches. Fortunately, the new owners also recognized that the Chopard brand name was also worth supporting and expanding by adding a high jewelry direction. When quartz movements reshaped the watch industry in the 1970s, this combination of watchmaking and jewelry is what saved Chopard from joining the hundreds of Swiss watchmakers that closed during the period known as the “Quartz Crisis.”

In 1976, Chopard created its first Happy Diamonds watch for men. The watch contained 30 free-floating diamonds between two sapphire crystals on top of the dial. With every twist of the wrist, the gold-sheathed diamonds sizzled into motion. Happy Diamonds eventually transformed into collection exclusively for ladies and over the last four decades, Chopard has released countless variants of the watches as well as pure jewelry designs. The Happy Sport debuted in 1993 with a three-hand watch in stainless steel. Today, the Happy Sport is also available in yellow gold, white gold and rose gold with a variety of complications.

The quartz Happy Sport Chrono is a spectacular evolution of the Chopard signature. Its 42mm rose gold case contains five diamonds, each in its own rose gold bezel, that float on top of a white mother of pearl dial. Diamonds wrap around the entire edge of the 9 o’clock side to encircle the entire perimeter, top and bottom. On the crown side, the diamonds stop at the underside of the chrono pushers. The bezel, however, is the star of this show. It is constructed from a series of colored sapphires set to create a rainbow effect around the dial. With more than 3 carats of diamonds sparkling inside and around the around the colorful bezel, this watch lives up to its Happy moniker since it is hard not to smile with every glance. Even the profile view is a spectacular work of art with more diamonds, a cabochon sapphire crown and matching highlights on the lugs.

Chopard

$80,100

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Generous with diamonds, Chopard’s Imperiale Joaillerie layers 2.65 carats on a rose gold case and blue mother of pearl dial. The diamonds on the dial are perfectly positioned on the hour markers and circling the edge of the hour hand’s sweep. Within that circle, an intricate design made from gold wire that is only one third the thickness of a human hair is applied to the dial. The pattern is also reflected in the delicate diamond-embellished quatrefoil small second sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The watch is simultaneously contemporary and classic. The colors and contrast give it a modern look while the lug design, for example, is clearly inspired by ancient Roman architecture. This Chopard is a COSC-certified chronometer powered by caliber L.U.C. 96. 12-C, an automatic in-house movement that’s visible through the caseback.

Chopard

$52,600

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Jaeger LeCoultre

Two watches from the Jaeger LeCoultre Rendez-Vous collection complete this survey of exquisite women’s watches. This collection debuted in 2012. It signaled JLC’s commitment to building exceptional watches for women that were beautiful, feminine and incorporated the finest horological components and materials. The company describes these watches as “Graceful from every angle, this collection is the union between the aesthetic and the mechanical.” Indeed, each design sparkles with a pleasing feel on the wrist.

Both watches feature a moonphase complication, though it is expressed in very different ways. On the Dazzling Rendez-Vous Night and Day, the complication is subtly placed above 6 o’clock on the iridiscent mother of pearl dial. The scene is playful with a moon and stars set above a starry night sky in a manner that creates surprising dimension on such a small canvas. The watch itself is made of white gold and as the name suggests, it truly dazzles. 186 diamonds totaling 3.52 carats line the bezel and lugs, plus there is another row sparkling on the inner ring of the dial. JLC uses a claw gem-setting technique that makes the diamonds appear to float on the edge of the bezel. It creates a striking profile, especially on the crown side where another diamond is perfectly placed. The back is no less spectacular. Blued steel screws, Geneva stripes and a rose gold rotor are the most prominent decorations on the automatic calibre 898B/1 but with every glance, new surprises appear. Undeniably dazzling from every angle.

Jaeger LeCoultre Watch

$53,500

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The moonphase indicator on the Rendez-Vous Moon Serenity is contained in a bubble on the lower half of the watch among a constellation-filled sky. The color of the dial looks like a dark sky with wispy clouds illuminated by a bright moon. Interesting highlights radiate from the rich and textured sunray pattern depending on the viewing angle. Oversized gold Arabic numbers span the upper curve marking the hours from 9 to 3 O’clock but Jaeger allows the eye to fill in the rest. There’s a sunburst-shaped star that first appears simply decorative, but it can actually be precisely placed to mark an appointment, or per the name of the collection, a rendezvous. It’s a fun reminder that also seems a little mischievous. The 36mm pink gold case has 124 brilliant diamonds totaling 1.31 carats around the bezel, set lug to lug and on both crowns. An exhibition caseback revealing the highly decorated caliber 935 and an alligator strap similar in tone to the dial complete this extraordinary timepiece.

Jaeger LeCoultre Watch
$39,600

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These watches represent the pinnacle of horology as each blends together the finest in watchmaking and jewelry design. All are heirlooms in the making, ready for generations of enjoyment.

About the Author

Bobby Frank is a freelance writer and musician based in Nashville. He’s been an avid watch collector since discovering a sample case full of early digital watches at his father’s office in the late 1970s. Current favorites include the Rolex Batman, Zenith Chronomatster and Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar. A timekeeper to his core, Bobby plays the drums in several bands that perform across the Southeast including Tennessee Dead, a Grateful Dead tribute band.

Watch Blog Series – Part 6

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